In the midst of the Southern Alps on the West Coast of New Zealand, lie a series of tracks carved by pioneering gold-miners. Today these old tracks, together with extensive water races, logging tramways and historic railway lines, form the West Coast Wilderness Trail.
Riding the West Coast of New Zealand had been a dream of mine ever since I drove it during a trip in 2015. I remember seeing people on their bikes loaded down with gear and thinking, are they just camping out here on the coast? This was my first real exposure to bikepacking, but the seed was planted.
This trail is pretty new and they are always working on new sections, so check out the official West Coast Wilderness Trail website for the latest information. They have recently improved the signage and accommodation options are decent if you plan ahead. Overall it’s a pretty easy ride, and my Specialized Sequoia was the perfect bike for it. After feeling rushed on the Otago Rail Trail and Clutha/Roxburgh, I decided to take my time on this ride. They suggest 4 to 5 days, but I did it in 3 and it felt about right.
Day 1 — Greymouth to Kumara, 31k
I managed to snag a free rental car relocation from Thrifty in Christchurch, so I was able to drive over to Greymouth for just the cost of fuel — not necessarily cheap in NZ though. The Thrifty return location is at the train station, which also happens to be the start of the trail.
I stayed at the Global Village Hostel in Greymouth for two nights ahead of the ride. It’s a good spot to regroup and they let me store my bag there while I was riding the trail. Plan to stop into the Monteith’s Brewery for a beer and bite to eat while you are there. It’s a short 15 minute walk from the Global Village.
I only had 31k to do the first day, so I started around Noon and planned to just noodle it into Kumara. This section runs parallel to the Tasman Sea behind the dunes, however you don’t get a whole lot of ocean views. You can definitely hear the ocean though.
Even though I took my time and stopped to take photos, I still rolled into Kumara at 2pm. Way too early for my liking. I would have preferred to keep riding, but there wasn’t really anywhere to stay within a few hours.
There isn’t a whole lot to do in Kumara outside the Theatre Royal Hotel, so I walked over for a beer and early dinner. The food was good and I would’ve stayed here, but it was full that night. I stayed at the Route 73 Motels down the street which has two big rooms out back with 5 beds each. If you have a large group, I’d suggest the Kumara Store, otherwise book the Theatre Royal early.
Day 2 — Kumara to Kaniere, 67k
I awoke to another sunny day, which was a nice change from the previous week on the Alps 2 Ocean trail where I got soaked for two days straight. The trail quickly heads out of Kumara and the real “wilderness” begins. This section basically heads away from the coast to the high point at Cowboy Paradise and then back to the coast at Hokitika.
The first part goes by two of the clearest lakes I’ve ever seen. On that day, they mirrored the landscape perfectly. I’m guessing it isn’t like that every day, but it was spectacular.
Next you really start to head inland. The track is wide and in good condition here and there are a few good spots to stop and have a snack or lunch. I sat on top of a large red rock, took my shoes off and soaked up the sun for a bit. After about three weeks of riding, this was really the first time I stopped for an extended amount of time and just took it all in.
The trail continues at a gradual incline and crosses a few suspension bridges until you reach this place called Cowboy Paradise. I’m not really sure how to classify it. You have to see it yourself.
I had a coffee and took in the view for a bit, but there wasn’t much else to do here. There was a ton of empty beer bottles under the bar, so I must have just missed a big weekend. There are a few rooms here, so this is on option to overnight if doing this section in two days.
The trail heads down immediately from Cowboy Paradise. It begins with a fun twisty section and then runs out to a dirt road. Maybe 5k later you hit this punchy climb that really hurts after all the downhill. Trust me.
I wanted to have a longer final day into Ross, so I decided to stay at an Airbnb about 20 minutes outside of Hokitika. The host Brett had a beer waiting for me in the fridge which I quickly finished while talking with him about cycling in NZ. 〉Get $40 off your first Airbnb booking.
Day 3 — Kaniere to Ross, 38k
That morning I sat down outside in the sun with Brett and enjoyed a flat white while talking about some of the best rides on the North Island. I could have talked about bikes for the entire morning, but it was time to get moving. Although it was a short ride to the end of the trail in Ross, this was my favorite section of the track.
About 10k outside of Hokitika, the trail runs along an old logging tramway through the rainforest. I’ve never seen moss that green or so many different types of fern. The smells alone were amazing.
Once out of this section you are on the road a bit, but there isn’t much traffic. There is a cafe on your right at the Treetop Walk a few minutes off the main road. I passed on the actual “walk” and just sat down and enjoyed an espresso and scone.
The final section was another favorite as it ran along the coast all the way to Ross. I believe it was an old rail line as well, because it was a straight shot for about 10k. Similar to the first section out of Greymouth, you can hear the sound of the ocean crashing along the way. After crossing the Totara River bridge you are almost at the end of the trail.
At the pavement you turn left to finish the ride into Ross, but I suggest going right where the road dead ends at the ocean. Or you can do what I did and head into town, check-in to your hotel, grab a couple of beers and ride back out to the beach to catch the sunset. There will be sand flies though.
Although it was closed (or under construction) when I arrived, there was a lodge called Totara Bridge Station that would be a great place to stay your final night. I was at the Ross Motel that night in town and enjoyed my stay there. It’s a bit older hotel, but clean and well-kept. It’s also right across the street from the bus stop where I caught the early afternoon InterCity bus back to Greymouth the next day.
Global Village Backpackers provides comfortable, unique backpackers’ accommodation. Beautifully decorated in a Global Art theme, where the atmosphere is conducive to good conversation and good times. 〉Book
Route 73 Motels can cater for up to six people in each of our rooms. We also run the general store, cafe and post office in the village so can cater to your every need during your stay with us, whether it be groceries, postal services, or takeaways. 〉Book
Situated on the West Coast Wilderness Trail 6km from Hokitika town centre my place is perfect for all independent travellers. The unit is fully self-contained with its own entrance and great rural views. The Kaniere Empire Hotel is 15 minute walk and town is only 5 minutes drive away with a selection of great dining options and bars. 〉Get $40 off your first Airbnb booking